ok, so I watched 68 menswear collections from Paris Fashion Week Men and the most baffling point is that too many labels show womenswear in their men’s collections as well and they are mostly mediocre. here you have the obvious winners of PFW. Kim Jones with a superb ending to his LV career, you almost cannot argue about that. Yohji is still going strong. and I was very critical about his shows, I swear. other than that, only few surprises in fashion’s Ligue 1.
wow Virgil made it with Off-White into the Ligue 2 and could manage to stay away from the third tier of French menswear, which is hard to do because it is the most hard fought market. after all London and Milan only have two leagues each. Ann Demeulemeester would play Ligue 1 next year. Issey Miyake as well. still, it is a pity that there are so many average collections being shown in Paris these days, mostly because they show for both genders.
now look how crappy some collections have been. Dior with a deliberate show, only copying old and current trends, not innovating fashion at all. Stella McCartney could do better, so could ACNE Studios. and Vetements is just straight crap in 2018. people should forget about this trashy Margiela fanboy label.
scores are open for discussion. DM me anywhere if you have questions.
watching all of the Pitti Uomo and Miland Fashion Week shows for menswear was quite a torture. Italian fashion is really at a low right now. very underwhelming collections, average and below average designs. we’ll see how the quite surprising top 4 will come up in the champions league later this month. Prada might have been the most talked about show and after watching it, I was quite disappointed as well. just like all the other Italian labels having shown at Pitti and MMU they have become only followers of current trends. no innovation, just a spin on trends from London and Paris. so Prada still managed to become 7th because everyone else was so bad.
and yes check out this table. versace really did show one of the most horrendous collections I’ve ever seen. they really need a new designer, kim jones anyone? other than that it’s surprising that philip plein’s billionaire collection is not last. tomas maier was disappointing as well.
message me your opinions, scores are open for discussion.
so I started this new fashion project out of personal need. just too often I had the problem of having forgotten which fashion collections had been the ones I liked most when the actual season they were shown for start and the clothes become available in the stores. but I could not find one fashion publication that sorts all collections shown at fashion weeks in – lets call it – meaningful rankings. this could be a great help in order to be independent of current hyped trends when fashion magazines and websites spread them because the labels paid them for doing so. and lets not get into the “fashion” that “influencers” spread on instagram. and I put the ranking into tables as if they were football leagues in a country. ta da. here’s the “Premier League”. Craig Green showed a great collection. A-Cold-Wall*, Chalayan and Touren de Transmission will join him in representing the London Fashion Week Men’s in the Champions League. But that’s a whole other story. check the scores and read more about the concept below. easy way to look at photos of the collections is finding them on nowfashion.com.
basically I watched every single show and presentation from this week’s London Fashion Week Men’s where designers presented their offerings for the Autumn/Winter season 2018/19. This is the stuff we are supposed to wear next winter. you can take out this table in September when you’ll go shopping and actually see, feel and try on these pieces in person. I rated the collections accordingly to my knowledge of current trends in fashion, compared to the quality of other collections, took other notable collections from fashion history into account and gave a rating out of 100 for the collection as a whole. thought process for this rating considers factors like an outfit’s silhouette, the materials, the colours, patterns, the overall concept of the collection, the cuts, is it avant-garde, are similar pieces already available etc. Then to add some more possibilities to gain points for the overall rating, each collection gets a max of 10 points for the shown accessories and could score 5 each for styling and show. how do the models look? like humans or hangers with clothes on? does the styling enhance the effect of the clothes? what’s the setting of the show? does it give the collection a special feeling or is it just a white cube? so, overall a collection can score 120 points, approximately what a football club in the premier league could do when winning all 38 games in a single season – which would be 114 points. to decide which collection comes out on top if they got the same amount of overall points, we got the “wearable – not wearable”-score. the one with more wearable outfits is rated higher. yeah, all clear? contact me for questions. and don’t forget – fashion is subjective. these tables are mere indicators of what I’m thinking about these collections. they might still help you in discovering new garments for yourself.
now check out the designers that didn’t make the prem at London Fashion Week Men’s. Cottweiler showed quite a nightmare, they’re so overrated right now. it can only get better for them.
let me know what you think of these fashion week tables, sorting collections for a better overview of what’s in store next or hopefully not. just DM me anywhere.
since I started DJing this year, I listened to a lot of music. seriously. a lot. even more than in all the previous 28 years. I was always the guy bringing the boombox, still listening through earphones at school during all the breaks, on the bus, train, bike. best part about driving a car is listening to music through a good system. now apple music did this thing of spilling out a top 25 of songs I listened to in 2017, which is a bit unfair as I always had the same three same albums on while writing my MA thesis. there would be too much skepta, jme and dizzee in it. so I thought I might filter out my favourite songs released in 2017. lets go from the back.
25 Wiley – Laptop feat. Manga
There has to be a Wiley song in every year’s top list. I was surprised myself that I listened to this one the most. It’s true though, I was with my laptop all 2017 as well. Definitely agreeing with the Godfather on this one.
24 Oscar #Worldpeace – Proletariat
Check out Oscar #Worldpeace! Otherwise you’re missing out on a sick artist.
23 Belly & Ekeno – Petrol Gang
Skeppy made the beat for the two newcomers Belly and Ekeno. Man don’t drive Diesels in Stuttgart ya get me!
22 Raf Camora – Andere Liga
The only German song in this list. It’s hard, trust me. Of course it’s that 2016 “Palmen aus Plastik” afro trap vibes that Raf Camora copied from the Parisian artist MHD in the first place, but this song combines the ingredients perfectly and the lyrics make it a summer banger. You just don’t understand if you hate it hahahahah
21 Drake – No Long Talk feat. Giggs
Giggs just went hard on “More Life”.
20 Preditah – Touch Road feat. C4
The new Preditah EP “Blank Canvas, Vol. 1” has some dope tunes on it! Preditah had one of the sickest tunes of 2017 anyway, is it number one in my list though???
19 Kojo Funds – Warning
You man are some them man there if you don’t feel them vibes.
18 IAMDDB – Running
Did not even know her a couple of months ago. Then I became completely addicted to two of the tunes from her “Hoodrich, Vol. 3” EP.
17 CeonRPG – Excuse me feat. Skepta
The Skepta protege on a beat from his mentor. Hope we’ll hear more dope songs from him in 2018! This one had me vibing for days!
16 Not3es – Addison Lee
Well, technically the video came out in November 2016, but the song was released in 2017. I’ll just have it in this list because it’s such a big tune!!! And Not3s will be everywhere in 2018. remember the name!
15 The Darker the Shadow the Brighter the Light – In my Head
Mike Skinner just casually came back with new songs under the alias The Darker the Shadow the Brighter the Light. And even more casually provided the soundtrack for this brilliant Alexa Chung x mytheresa.com commercial. It’s even more brilliant if you know that Alexa Chung acted in one of Mike Skinner’s early music videos (Could Well Be In, 2004) when she was still an unknown model and this works out as the second part of the story.
14 Stormzy – Mr Skeng
Album is great, lets face it. Has all the facets a great album needs. We just expected more grime bangers. But this one is great.
13 J Hus – Did You See
One of the biggest artists in 2017. One of the biggest tracks as well.
12 Shakka – Rollin feat. Frisco
Big big big tune! Shakka is so underrated and forms a dream team with BBK’s Frisco!
11 IAMDDB – Shade
Yeah, sick tune. IAMDDB could be big.
10 Dizzee Rascal – Wot U Gonna Do?
In 2017, Dizzee finally came back. Grimy, dirty, banging. finally no Calvin Harris trash for the charts.
9 Stormzy – Bad Boys feat. Ghetts & J Hus
Another song of “Gang Signs & Prayer” that stands out from this excellent body of work. Featuring the brilliant J Hus and the legend that is Ghetts. The hook is Grime history, innit.
8 Stormzy – Big for your Boots
You will listen to it now I know it. Just too sick. To announce his debut album after bangers like “Know Me From”, “Shut Up”, “Standard” with a straight classic was one of music’s biggest moments in 2017. Video is sick as well.
7 Skepta – Skepta Interlude
Skepta’s “Vicious” EP is sick, but somehow it’s his song on Drake’s “More Life” that reassured everyone of Skeppy’s genius.
6 Jaykae – Every Country feat. Murkage Dave
Not enough Skepta in my top 25? This one is one of his productions! Just like “Petrol Gang” and “Excuse Me”. And finally Jaykae managed to announce himself on the big stage! This one is a tuuuuuuneee! Murkage Dave with one of the smoothest hooks in 2017 as well!
5 Dave – Calling Me Out
Only one of the reasons why Dave is my favourite artist of 2017.
4 Jaykae – Moscow
Yeah, Jaykae is about to blow up. This tune is cold like Moscoooowwwwww.
3 Dave – No Words feat. Mostack
Dave killed it in 2017. Make sure you listen to his “Game Over” EP. And I want that freaking colour changing Stone Island sweater which is made out of thermo sensitive yarn. Costs only about 2 grand ffs, anyone got the plug to Stoney?
2 Jorja Smith & Preditah – On my mind
You just can’t skip that song. It’s perfect. Preditah on the beat. And Jorja Smith. Damn. Classic!